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Yves Saint Laurent Yves Saint Laurent Fashion

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French fashion designer (1936–2008)

Yves Saint-Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent (1958).png

Saint Laurent in 1958
Born

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent


(1936-08-01)i August 1936

Oran, French People's democratic republic of algeria
Died 1 June 2008(2008-06-01) (aged 71)

Paris, France
Nationality French
Education Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
Occupation Style designer

Label(south)

 Yves Saint Laurent
Partner(s) Pierre Bergé

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (, likewise , , French: [iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃]; 1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008),[1] referred to equally Yves Saint-Laurent or YSL, was a French fashion designer who, in 1962, founded his eponymous way label. He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers of the twentieth century.[2] In 1985, Caroline Milbank wrote, "The nigh consistently historic and influential designer of the by twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent tin exist credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its 1960s ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable."[3] He developed his mode to accommodate the changes in way during that menstruation. He approached his aesthetic from a different perspective by helping women find confidence by looking both comfy and elegant at the same fourth dimension. He is also credited with having introduced the "Le Smoking" tuxedo suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references and of diverse models.[4]

Early life [edit]

Saint Laurent was born on one August 1936, in Oran, French Algeria,[v] [6] to French parents, Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.[7] He grew upward in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte.[seven] Saint Laurent liked to create intricate newspaper dolls, and past his early on teen years, he was designing dresses for his mother and sisters. At the age of 17, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, where his designs quickly gained notice. Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior, a giant in the style earth. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the basis of my fine art. Any was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent at his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's mode continued to mature and gain even more than notice.[8]

Personal life and career [edit]

Young designer [edit]

In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted iii sketches to a contest for young way designers organized by the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December of that same year.[9] During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff (who was and so editor-in-chief of the French edition of Vogue mag and a connection to his male parent). De Brunhoff, known by some as a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches that Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he should intend to become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent would eventually consider a course of report at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture manufacture and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed his advice and, leaving Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as a star student. Later, that same year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat competition again and won, beating out his friend Fernando Sánchez and young German pupil Karl Lagerfeld.[x] Shortly afterward his win, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had been shown that morning by Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketches that morning time and that the beau could not accept seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot.[11]

Although Dior recognised his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his start year at the Firm of Dior on mundane tasks, such as decorating the studio and designing accessories. Eventually, however, he was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection; with every passing season, more than of his sketches were accepted by Dior. In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's mother to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as a designer. His female parent later said that she had been confused by the remark, as Dior was merely 52 years sometime at the time. Both she and her son were surprised when in October of that year Dior died at a health spa in northern Italy of a massive center attack.[x]

Yves Saint Laurent trapeze dress for Dior, 1958.

In 1957, Saint Laurent institute himself at historic period 21 the head designer of the House of Dior. His bound 1958 collection virtually certainly saved the enterprise from financial ruin.[12] [thirteen] The simple, flaring lines of his first drove for Dior,[14] called the Trapeze line,[xv] [16] a variation of Dior's 1955 A-Line,[17] [18] [19] catapulted him to international stardom. Dresses in the collection featured a narrow shoulder that flared gently to a hem that simply covered the knee. At that time, he shortened his surname to Saint Laurent because the international press constitute his hyphenated triple name difficult to limited.[ commendation needed ]

His fall 1958 collection was not greeted with the same level of approval as his commencement drove and afterwards collections for the Firm of Dior featuring hobble skirts and beatnik fashions were savaged by the printing.[20]

In 1959, he was chosen past Farah Diba, who was a pupil in Paris, to design her hymeneals dress for her matrimony to the Shah of Iran.[ citation needed ]

In 1960, Saint Laurent found himself conscripted to serve in the French Army during the Algerian War of Independence.[21] Alice Rawsthorn writes that there was speculation at the time that Marcel Boussac, the owner of the House of Dior and a powerful press businesswoman, had put pressure level on the regime non to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but afterward the disastrous 1958 season, reversed course and asked that the designer exist conscripted so that he could be replaced.[ citation needed ]

Conscription, illness and independence [edit]

Dresses from the Mondrian drove, 1965

Examples of Saint Laurent's trend-setting Le Smoking evening trouser-adjust for women.

A lady's trouser suit by Yves Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent was in the military for xx days before the stress of hazing by fellow soldiers led to him existence admitted to a military infirmary, where he received news that he had been fired from Dior. This exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâce war machine infirmary, where he was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive drugs, and subjected to electroshock therapy.[22] Saint Laurent himself traced the origin of both his mental bug and his drug addictions to this time in hospital.[ten]

After his release from the infirmary in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for breach of contract and won. Subsequently a period of convalescence, he and his partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own way house Yves Saint Laurent YSL with funds from American millionaire J. Mack Robinson.[23] The couple split romantically in 1976 but remained business partners.[24]

In the 1960s and 1970s, the firm popularized fashion trends such as the crackpot wait, safari jackets for men and women, tight trousers, tall, thigh-high boots, and arguably the most famous archetype tuxedo adjust for women in 1966, Le Smoking. The 1965 Mondrian collection was particularly renowned, and his Russian peasant collections of the mid-1970s were too acclaimed.[25] [26] [27] Saint Laurent also started mainstreaming the idea of wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s[ citation needed ] and is credited with initiating in 1978 the broad, shoulder-padded styles that would characterize the 1980s.[28] [29] Yves Saint Laurent brought in new changes to the fashion industry in the 60s and the 70s. The French designer opened his Pret-a-Porter Firm YSL Rive Gauche in 1967 where he was starting to shift his focus from Haute Couture to Ready-to-wearable. One of the purposes was to provide a wider range of fashionable styles beingness available to cull from in the market as they were affordable and cheaper.

He was the first French couturier to come up out with a full prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line, although Alicia Drake credits this move with Saint Laurent's wish to democratize manner;[thirty] others[ who? ] point out that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines at the same time – the Business firm of Yves Saint Laurent simply announced its line showtime. The kickoff of the company'due south Rive Gauche stores, which sold the prêt-à-porter line, opened on the rue de Tournon in the sixth arrondissement of Paris, on 26 September 1966. The offset customer was Catherine Deneuve.[ten] He ended up doing many costumes for her in films such every bit Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, and Beloved to Eternity. [31]

Many of his collections were positively received by both his fans and the press, such equally the autumn 1965 collection, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suit. Other collections raised controversy, such equally his jump 1971 collection, which was inspired by 1940s fashion. Some felt it romanticized the German occupation of France during Globe State of war Two, which he did not feel, while others felt information technology brought dorsum the unattractive utilitarianism of the fourth dimension. The French newspaper France Soir called the spring 1971 collection "Une grande farce!"[ten] Aside from this drove, however, he came to be considered during the 1970s the about prominent designer in the world, adapting his designs to modern women'southward needs.[32]

During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris'south "jet fix".[30] He was often seen at clubs in French republic and New York City, such equally Regine'southward and Studio 54, and was known to be both a heavy drinker and a frequent user of cocaine.[10] When he was not actively supervising the preparation of a collection, he spent fourth dimension at his villa in Marrakech, Morocco. In the late 1970s, he and Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, most Deauville, French republic. Yves Saint Laurent was a great gentleman of Marcel Proust who had been a frequent guest of Gaston Gallimard, one of the previous owners of the villa. When they bought Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé commissioned Jacques Grange to decorate it with themes inspired by Proust'south Remembrance of Things Past.[33]

The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular with the public if not with the critics and eventually earned many times more for Saint Laurent and Bergé than the haute couture line. However, Saint Laurent, whose health had been precarious for years, became erratic under the pressure of designing ii haute couture and 2 prêt-à-porter collections every year. He increasingly turned to alcohol and drugs.[34] At some shows, he could barely walk down the runway at the end of the show, and he had to be supported by models.[35] [ citation needed ]

Following his 1978 introduction of the big-shoulder-pad looks that would dominate the 1980s, he relied on a restricted set of styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets, narrow skirts, and pumps that didn't vary much during the decade, resulting in some fashion writers bemoaning the loss of his onetime creativity[36] [37] and others praising the familiarity.[38] After a disastrous 1987 prêt-à-porter show in New York City, which featured US$100,000 jeweled casual jackets but days later the "Black Mon" stock marketplace crash, he turned over the responsibleness of the prêt-à-porter line to his administration. Although the line remained popular with his fans, it was soon dismissed as "boring" past the press.[10]

After life [edit]

A favorite among his female person clientele, Saint Laurent had numerous muses that inspired his work. Amidst them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau,[39] who opened his get-go fashion show in 1962;[40] Loulou de la Falaise,[39] [41] the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish model, who became the jewelry designer for the make;[42] Betty Catroux,[39] [41] the one-half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister";[43] French extra Catherine Deneuve;[39] [41] French model Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain,[44] who inspired the Le Smoking adjust;[45] Mounia,[39] [41] a model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride at his mode shows; Lucie de la Falaise,[46] a Welsh-French model and niece of Loulou, who was the bride in his way shows in 1990–1994; Jewelry designer Paloma Picasso;[39] [41] Dutch actress Talitha Getty;[47] [48] American socialite Nan Kempner,[49] [fifty] who was named ambassador for the brand;[51] Italian model Marina Schiano,[39] [41] who managed the YSL boutiques in Due north America; French model Nicole Dorier,[52] who became the manager of his rails shows,[53] and later, the "memory" of his house when information technology became a museum; and French model Laetitia Casta,[54] who was the bride in his way shows in 1998–2001.[55]

In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion designer to exist honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a solo exhibition. In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur by French President Jacques Chirac. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive, living at his homes in Normandy and Kingdom of morocco with his pet French Bulldog Moujik.[ citation needed ] In 2007, he was awarded the rank of Chiliad officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.[56] [57] He also created a foundation with Bergé in Paris to trace the history of the house of YSL, complete with fifteen,000 objects and 5,000 pieces of clothing.[58]

Decease [edit]

Saint Laurent died on one June 2008 of brain cancer at his residence in Paris.[59] Co-ordinate to The New York Times,[60] a few days prior, he and Bergé had been joined in a aforementioned-sex civil union known as a Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) in French republic. When Saint Laurent was diagnosed as final, with just one or two weeks left to live, Bergé and the doctor mutually decided that information technology would exist ameliorate for him non to know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the belief that Yves would not have been strong plenty to accept that."[61]

He was given a Catholic funeral at Église Saint-Roch in Paris.[62] The funeral attendees included the former Empress of Islamic republic of iran Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his married woman, Carla Bruni.[63]

His body was cremated and his ashes were scattered in Marrakech, Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden, a residence and botanical garden that he owned with Bergé since 1980 and often visited to notice inspiration and refuge.[64] Bergé said at the funeral service (in French): "Simply I also know that I volition never forget what I owe you and that one day I will join you under the Moroccan palms."

Legacy [edit]

In Feb 2009, an auction of 733 items was held by Christie's at the M Palais, ranging from paintings by Picasso to aboriginal Egyptian sculptures. Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting art in the 1950s; before the sale, Bergé commented that the decision to sell the collection was taken because, without Saint Laurent, "it has lost the greater part of its significance", with the proceeds proposed for the creation of a new foundation for AIDS enquiry.[ commendation needed ]

Before the sale commenced, the Chinese regime tried to end the sale of two of twelve bronze statue heads taken from the Old Summer Palace in China during the Second Opium War. A French guess dismissed the claim and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and a rat, sold for €15,745,000.[65] However, the bearding buyer revealed himself to be Cai Mingchao, a representative of the PRC'due south National Treasures Fund, and claimed that he would not pay for them on "moral and patriotic grounds".[66] The heads remained in Bergé's possession[67] until caused by François Pinault, owner of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He then donated them to Red china in a ceremony on 29 June 2013.[68]

On the first day of the auction, Henri Matisse's painting Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose broke the previous world record set in 2007 for a Matisse piece of work and sold for 32 meg euros. The record-breaking sale realized 342.5 one thousand thousand euros (£307 million).[69] The subsequent auction, 17–20 November, included i,185 items from the couple'southward Normandy villa and while non every bit impressive as the first auction, featured the designer's last Mercedes-Benz car and his Hermès luggage.[70]

Forbes rated Saint Laurent the top-earning dead celebrity in 2009.[71]

In popular culture [edit]

On film [edit]

  • 2002: David Teboul'south Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times [72]
  • 2002: Yves Saint Laurent: 5 Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris [73]
  • 2009: Pierre Thoretton's L'Flirtation Fou [74]
  • 2014: Yves Saint Laurent [75]
  • 2014: Saint Laurent [76]

Goggle box [edit]

  • 1965: Appeared on 25 October every bit a "mystery invitee" on the American goggle box game evidence What'south My Line? [77]

Books [edit]

  • 2014: Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion, Pierre Bergé, illustrated by Lawrence Mynott, Abrams, ISBN 978-1419713491[78]
  • 2017: Dior by YSL, Laurence Benaïm, photography past Laziz Hamani, Assouline, ISBN 9781614285991[79]
  • 2020: Yves Saint Laurent: The Impossible Collection, Laurence Benaïm, Assouline, ISBN 9781614289425[80]

See also [edit]

  • BathingSuit1920s.jpg Fashion portal

References [edit]

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  79. ^ "Dior past YSL". ASSOULINE.
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Further reading [edit]

  • Bergé, Pierre (1997). Yves Saint Laurent: The Universe of Fashion. Rizzoli. ISBN 0-7893-0067-2.
  • Milbank, Caroline Rennolds (1985). Couture: The Groovy Mode Designers. Thames & Hudson.
  • Rawsthorn, Alice (1996). Yves Saint Laurent: A Biography. Nan A. Talese/Doubleday. ISBN 0-385-47645-0.

External links [edit]

  • ysl.com, official Yves Saint Laurent (brand) website
  • Trapèze dresses at Digital Collections at Chicago History Museum
  • "Yves Saint Laurent, legendary designer and Pied Piper of manner, dies aged 71", The Guardian: retrospective article
  • "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Biography of Yves Saint Laurent
  • Yves Saint Laurent Biography
  • "Yves Saint Laurent shuts its doors" – BBC World 31 October 2002
  • "All Near Yves" – Jim Lehrer xvi Jan 2002 By Jessica Moore
  • "Yves Saint Laurent announces retirement" – CNN vii Jan 2002
  • "All Almost Yves: Equally the unequalled Yves Saint Laurent celebrates his 40th anniversary every bit a couturier, the world salutes his genius." – Julie K.L. Dam, Time magazine, iii August 1998.

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